FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Contact: Lee R Ramey,
Mold and Mildew Solutions

 
Phone: Lee Ramey  205-252-9506 
Email: lrramey@gmail.com
Local Companies help Hurricane Michael Victims
Emphasizing Safety and Proper Clean-up of Unhealthy Homes 

[Birmingham Al, November 16,2018—] Starting today through the end of 2018, companies Mold and Mildew Solutions and To the Rescue are donating 5% of all proceeds to help with clean-up in the Panhandle area after hurricane Michael.
They are focusing on helping those unfortunate victims clean and sanitize their homes, especially those without insurance or without enough insurance. Since the long-term health of the homeowners and their children can be impacted by improper, or insufficient cleaning and sanitizing, they feel this is one way to make a big impact on the future of the area.
As you may know, the Ramey family and all his crew have volunteered for decades in disaster relief zones. “Here is our opportunity to show that we actually live our principles and convictions and help those we don’t know whom may in dire need of assistance,” says Lee Ramey, A 30-year veteran of cleaning and remediation. “I also have seen victims become victims twice when unscrupulous, uninformed contractors or even well-meaning volunteers do inadequate clean-up procedures, which left  them in a house that makes them sick or worse un-livable if the mold is hidden by painted over the walls or wet or moist cavities of the house.”
Not only are physical supplies being shipped, but also advice and free education, of proper use of personal protection equipment known as PPE. These are dispensed free of charge for volunteers going to the coast.
There’s no use for people with willing hearts to go down there and get themselves hurt, hurt others, do a poor job, or worse, making them no good for anybody else or their family when they get back home. This is why they are here emphasizing safety and personal protection, as well as helping them realize what can be saved, what cannot be saved, and what are the most efficient methods for restoration in a primitive scenario (no electricity, limited water, etc.)
If you or anybody you know in that area needs some education on how to clean up after flood damage, or has water in the house, resulting in water damage and/or mold, please visit the following web pages to learn more.
www.alabamamold.com and www.freemoldbook.com
 For further information, contact Lee R Ramey, CIE, AMRT,MCT,MRT- Mold and Mildew Solutions- 205-252-9506
 

HOW DO I TO KEEP MY ATTIC FREE FROM ATTIC MOLD?
Attics are so useful. Especially in small homes, attics can provide the extra storage needed to keep some items not used often out of the floor space of the house. Out of sight, out of mind, right? Well, not really? Not for attic mold, at least.
As you would have known, mold loves hiding in places that dark and less frequented. Attics fit right into the description. This is why it is important to put up preventive measures to keep mold out of your attic. In case you are facing an attic mold problem right now, you need to pay attention to this even more.
Earlier, we discussed the varying mold smells you may detect in your home, and how important it is for you to detect it in time before it wreaks havoc. We mentioned varying descriptions of mold smells from wet or damp to stale or rotten.
In the case of attics, we mentioned that the smell will neither be wet nor damp. Instead, the smell will be dry. One of the things that may contribute to this is the location of the attic. Since it is nearer the roof of the building, the heat from the sun may work with the moisture present to create a humid environment.
However, since it is rarely frequented, properly aired, and taken care of, it could start giving off a dry and dusty smell. This will be especially true when unused books, cardboard box and other paper items are abandoned there. This condition is very perfect for the growth of attic mold.
So, what can you do to keep your attic free from attic mold? Below are a few important steps you should start taking right away.
 
Step 1 - Clean Your Attic Thoroughly
People underestimate the power of frequently cleaning up even the hidden parts of the house, yet that is an extremely important step in keeping your home free from mold. In fact, all it takes sometimes to purge your attic of attic mold can be nothing more than a sponge and a commercial mold cleaner.
To clean the attic mold effectively, simply apply the cleaner to any mold-laden areas of your attic, and then vigorously wipe the infected areas clean using your sponge. One thing you want to do, though, is to keep the area where you are working properly ventilated. This is because of how potent the fumes and chemicals in a lot of commercial mold cleaners can be.
Depending on how long it will take you to clean up your attic, make sure to pause once in a while to breathe outside. Exposing yourself too much to the fumes and chemicals from these commercial mold cleaners for a long time can be harmful. So, it is highly recommended that you take periodic breaks.
 
Step 2 – Keep Your Attic Well Ventilated
One of the best ways to reduce the amount of moisture in your attic is by making sure it is getting a good amount of fresh air. Ventilation can’t be overemphasized because moisture is one of the root causes of attic mold. Ventilating your attic does not have to cost you a lot of money. Just one or more fans within your attic will get the job done if you are on budget.
 
Step 3 - Get New Storage Containers
Do you use your attic as a storage area? Many homeowners do, and this is fine. The problem is with the storage containers. Most people simply stuff their old things into cardboard boxes and shove it up the attic.
However, containers like cardboard boxes are not suitable for an environment as humid and insulated as the household attics. In such an environment, cardboards, which are highly susceptible to moisture, will yield to the elements and provide a perfect room for attic mold to grow.
To prevent this, you have to upgrade to storage containers that are more durable and suited for that condition. An excellent option would be storage containers made of plastic. Yes, you might have to clean them occasionally. But the little work is nothing compared to the mess their cardboard counterparts can create.
On the cost side of things, they might cost a bit more, but look at the alternatives. First, plastic storage containers are sturdier and more durable, so you can use them for a longer period. Beyond that, they will also save you time, money and energy on attic mold removal in the long run.
 
Step 4 - Patch Any Leakage In Your Roof Securely
We said earlier that moisture is one of the root causes behind the growth of attic mold. Guess where the moisture usually comes from. Exactly! When you detect any leakage in your roof, no matter how small, make sure you get it patched immediately. A patch in time saves you lots of cash in repair later.
When leakages are ignored, the homeowner is setting the right condition for attic mold growth. To keep moisture out, consider the roof boots. They’ve been known to leak after 5 to 7 years.  Make sure you check yours out regularly, at most after a 10 year period.
One way many contractors are now making it last longer is by “double booting” the roof. In the process, they help protect the lower one, giving it more durability. This is why it is important to give your roofing jobs to seasoned and licensed professionals.
Patching a roof requires a lot of skills. You don’t have a business doing it yourself. It is much better you give the job to professionals who are well trained for the job, due to how dangerous the task is. What you could do before the professionals arrive to fix the leakage is to place a large bucket beneath the leaky area. This will prevent wet spots and moisture buildup.
 
Step 5 – Check For Leakage In Your Natural Gas Flue Pipe
Chimneys and gas appliances are great until they start to leak. In case, of a leakage in your chimney or gas appliance, two big problems present themselves immediately.
The first one that a lot of people can guess is that there is a possibility of carbon monoxide poisoning or even a fire outbreak. What most people will not easily suspect is the second one.
In the cold winter months, the leakage presents another problem. Since the underside of the roof sheathing will be cold, naturally the warm moist fumes will be attracted to the cold surface, condensers. This very simple law of biology just created a perfect environment for mold.
So, it is important to make sure there are no leakages in your natural gas flue pipe. If there are, make sure it is fixed immediately. However, it can be tough fishing out the sources of the attic mold yourself. This is understandable.
The most effective way to fix your attic and keep it attic mold-free is to call a professional mold remediation company that is seasoned and experienced to not only fix the problem but find the source and prevent it from returning.
This is why all of us at Mold and Mildew Solutions LLC stay ahead in the industry to keep your home free from mold and safe for your family. We are always ready to fix any mold problem and just one call away whenever you need us. Please, contact us at:
 
Mold and Mildew Solutions LLC
205-252-9506
www.alabamamold.com
PS. Don't forget you can get a copy the book "MOLD (doesn't have to be) a SCARY SUBJECT! from our office when you call.

Emergency Flood damage clean-up basics Part 2


SAFETY
Of course, you can't wait to get back into your home following the disaster. As soon as the water stops rising and it begins to fall, you figure that it is now safe to go in and start evaluating the damage. Not so fast! There are plenty of hidden dangers that have to be thought out before entering your home. Don't become a statistic by coming back home too soon!
Check the Exterior of Your Home
Do a visual walk around your home to see if there are any downed power lines, or electrical connections that may be in contact with the water. Smell the air around you. Is there a smell of gas in the air? Often times there may be a gas leak. If you find either of these problems, call the proper utility company to correct the problem. If water is still around the house, check to see if the outside walls have cracked or giving way because of the water pressure being exerted on them. If there's water still around, don't enter the home, there’s always a chance that the walls could give way and the house could collapse around you. Be cautious around porches and overhangs. These areas may have weakened during a flood and could give way or collapse.
 
Electrical and Gas Connections
When you arrive at your home, disconnecting the electrical and gas supplies are a good start. By shutting off the gas supply, you lessen the chance of fire and explosion. By disconnecting the electrical supply, you lessen the chance of electrocution. Even if the power is out or the power supply has been disconnected from the power pole by the utility company, your electrical fuse or breaker panel's main fuse or breaker may still be on. In this case, at any time during the day, the utility company could come back and turn the power on to your home. You may not be aware that they've turned the power back on and your panel is now live, subjecting you to potential shock hazards.
 
If the only way to disconnect the gas and power is inside the home and there's water where you have to shut them off, don't enter the home to do so until you can safely enter the home and the water has been removed. Remember, water and electricity doesn’t mix. Every year people die from electrocution in flood-related accidents. Many are from entering a home after the flood waters have receded.
 
 
Procedures
After Flood Waters Recede
Turn off all breakers till electrician can make safe
Dry Out the House
It is important to open up the bottom of flooded walls and remove all wet material from them. Turn on fans and dehumidifiers as soon as possible to dry the home. Deadly mold can form quickly (less than 3 days) in warm and moist areas in the home. Get wet carpeting and padding out of the home as soon as possible. Get garbage, effected clothing, etc. out of the home and clear the floor space in rooms and closets. Open the windows to let the house breath. By getting the home dried out quickly, you'll be on your way to cleaning and repairing it. Anything that the flood waters wet and cannot be thoroughly cleaned will have to be thrown away!

Removing Moisture, Cleaning and Repairing
Be prepared to let flood-damaged walls, ceilings and floors dry for several weeks if you do not have electricity. If restoration work is completed before proper drying, mold and mildew will continue to grow. The result may be structural damage to your home, the need to repaint walls or replace new wall coverings, and discomfort or illness to family members who have allergies.
Getting the Moisture Out
Get is as dry as you can as fast as you can. If the weather permits, open doors and windows to remove moisture and odors. If the outside humidity becomes greater than inside, close things up; likewise, close up the house overnight if temperatures drop and moist air might otherwise be drawn indoors. If windows are stuck tight, take off window strips and remove entire sash. If doors are stuck, drive out door hinge pins with a screwdriver and hammer, then remove.
Consider using dehumidifiers to speed up drying when outside humidity levels are high. If possible, rent commercial dehumidifiers, which remove three to four times more water than home models. When using dehumidifiers, shut windows and doors. If there is severe flooding in your home, consider hiring a contractor for water removal. Some companies can dry homes in less than a week with commercial dehumidifiers and air movers.
Walls and Ceilings
Wash out mud, dirt and debris as soon as possible with a hose and mop cloth or sponge.
Start cleaning from the top floor or upper limit of flooding and work downward.
Remove wallboard, plaster and paneling to at least 2 feet past the flood level. Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, it can be a permanent health hazard and should be removed. If most of the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, consider cutting a 4- to 12-inch-high section from the bottom and top of walls. This creates a "chimney effect" of air movement for faster drying. A reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade works well, but use only the tip of the blade and watch out for pipes, ductwork and wiring.
Plaster usually does not need to be replaced, though it will take a very long time to dry.
Some paneling may be salvaged if allowed to dry slowly. You also should remove and dispose of any flood-damaged insulation, which will hold water for months after getting wet.
To clean surfaces
Thoroughly wash and disinfect walls, ceilings, exposed wall cavities and studs. (see three bucket method)
Use a good disinfectant to prevent mildew build-up. Use an EPA registered anti- Microbial if you have it or One cup of chlorine bleach mixed with a gallon of water works well. For a soapier cleaning solution, add a half cup of mild detergent. Wear rubber gloves.
If walls have already dried, work from the floor to the ceiling to prevent streaking. (Dirty water splashed on dry walls may be absorbed and become almost impossible to remove.) Overlap sections, cleaning the ceiling last.
Floors
Before the house has dried out, scrub floors and woodwork with a stiff brush, plenty of water, a detergent and disinfectant. Carpeting soaked by contaminated floodwater should be removed and discarded unless it can be sanitized at a commercial facility for a cost substantially less than replacement. Vinyl flooring and floor tile may need to be removed to allow drying of subfloor.
Wooden floors should be dried gradually. Sudden drying could cause cracking or splitting. Some restoration companies can accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards.
 
Once Floors Have Dried
Assess whether your floors can be repaired, replaced or recovered. Consider your time and budget as you make any decisions. Plywood subfloors may have delaminated (separated) from excessive moisture, causing buckling. Sections may have to be replaced or have new plywood nailed over them.
If buckling or warping has occurred, drive nails where the floor tends to lift or bulge. This will prevent further damage. Badly warped hardwood floors usually can't be repaired. Warped, wide pine board flooring, however, will often flatten out after it has thoroughly dried. Plane or sand floors level. Do not refinish until thoroughly dry.
Removing Mildew
To remove surface mildew on walls or ceilings, HEPA vacuum twice, (once in each direction)
Use a mildew surface cleaner mentioned above or: scrub the mildew with household detergent, then scrub with a solution of one-quarter cup bleach to 1-quart water. Rinse well with clean water. Once fully dry, apply a coat of paint containing an anti-mildew agent.
To remove surface mildew on floors and woodwork, use a phosphate cleaning solution such as powdered automatic dishwashing detergent or trisodium phosphate (4 to 6 tablespoons to a gallon of water), available in hardware stores. Rinse with water, and when dry, apply a mildew-resistant finish.
By using a pump sprayer wit anti -microbial such as ShockWave or equvilant, (bleach water if you just have to), you can effectively clean your home first and make it sterile.

Emergency Flood damage clean-up basics Part 3

Cleaning and Sterilizing the Home
.Professionals do not use Bleach in the clean up or the mold removal process!! Please try to get your hands on professional chemicals and solutions that are better and safer than you using Bleach. However, the governments websites still recommend the following...The recommended mixture of water to bleach is ten parts water to one part Bleach. Better yet use EPA registered anti-microbial.

Contents;
Deciding What to Salvage and Tips on Reconditioning
Save valuable and sentimental things first. Remember they are only things. You still have your health and Jehovah, don’t stress on the temporary situation, nothing can happen that God can’t reverse.
If things got wet with clean water, (roof leak) they are more likely to be saved, if they get wet from rising water (floods) the water is so contaminated that you need to treat it as if it was sewage water.
Evaluating appliance damage is a high priority after a flood. Have a service person check flooded appliances before you attempt operation or invest a lot of time in clean-up.
Deciding which furniture to save may be a more personal issue, especially if you have antiques and other pieces with sentimental value. Keep in mind that you don't need to repair all pieces of salvageable furniture immediately. You can clean, dry and store them in a warm, well-ventilated place until you have time to deal with them.

Three bucket cleaning system
1. Pump sprayer contains detergent (do not use
Sprayer for bleach)
2. Rinse bucket ~ should be changed frequently
3. Squeeze wringer bucket for dirty water
4. 32 oz mop head ~ clean or replace frequently

 
 Many items can only be saved by professionals using professional equipment, and processes, such as upholstered furniture, etc
 
Some examples:

• Mattresses should be thrown away.
• Upholstered furniture soaks up contaminants from floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.
• Wood veneered furniture is usually not worth the cost and effort of repair.
  Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.
• Toys and stuffed animals may have to be thrown away if they've been contaminated by floodwaters.
• Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional.

• Immerse glass, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel. Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case because it reacts with many metals and causes them to darken.
• Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.

 Getting Out Water of Basements and Preventing Future Problems
Before you enter a flooded basement, take time to:

1. Turn off the electricity.
2. Check outside for possible wall cave-ins, evidence of structural damage or other hazards.
3. Turn off gas or fuel service valves.
4. Open doors and windows or use blowers to force fresh air into the basement.

Pumping Basements
For safety reasons, do not use an electric pump powered by your own electrical system. Instead, use a gas-powered pump or one connected to an outside line. Fire departments in some communities may help with pumping services.
More damage may be done by pumping flooded basements too soon or too quickly. Water in the basement helps brace the walls against the extra pressure of water-logged soil outside. If water is pumped out too soon, walls may be pushed in or floors pushed up. To help prevent this kind of structural damage:

• Remove about 2 to 3 feet of the water. Watch for signs of structural failing.
• If the outside water level rises again after the day's pumping, start at the new water line.

 

• Don't rush the pumping; the soil may be very slow to drain. Whatever is submerged in the basement will not be damaged further by delaying the pumping.
• Sump pump pits often fill up with mud and debris. In order for the sump pump to perform effectively, these pits must be cleaned up from time to time, especially following a flood.

Cleaning
After water has been pumped from the basement, shovel out the mud and debris while it is still moist. Hose down walls to remove as much silt as possible before it dries. Scrub the walls and floor with a detergent. Floors and walls may need sanitizing, particularly if sewage has entered the basement. Scrub walls and floors with a disinfecting solution of 1 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water.
Crawl spaces
Pump out the water, remove the debris, remove the vapor barrier set a fan to suck out and let dry for one or two weeks, then install new vapor barrier. (Very important or your house will never dry, NEVER)
_______________________________________
The forgoing series is a Public Service provided by
Lee Ramey of Mold and Mildew Solutions, IICRC Master Cleaner, Master Restoration Tech, Certified Mold Remediator, & Council Certified Indoor Environmentalist. He is a 34 year veteran of dealing with wet and flooded homes.
Mold and Mildew Solutions llc, 908 13th St No. Birmingham Al 35203
205-252-5326 and lrramey@gmail.com
Alabamamold.com

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Authors note:
The forgoing is a concise amalgamated summary of the guidelines and Standards that have be published by the IICRC, EPA, FEMA and OSHA. It also assumes that you are not hiring a professional remediation company. However, you can judge the quality of the contractor if you do hire one, as they should be following these principles at a minimum.
It is also based on 30 plus years of first-hand knowledge and industry practices.  This is the basics so that you can get a safe home again. Flood waters contain many contaminants and should be considered as dangerous as sewage. Wet structures and contents that have been affected must be cleaned and sterilized before re-use.
Please do not cut any corners, your families future health can depend upon your handling this situation right the first time.
Insurance companies are not looking out for your best interests!! Do what will give YOU the healthiest outcome.
Lee

Emergency Flood damage clean-up basics Part 1

Materials List (per project)
Worker Protection
N95 or N100 respirator with exhaust valve
Half-face negative air respirator w/HEPA filters
Extra bags for vacuum cleaner
Heavy-duty water-proof gloves
Nonwoven polypropylene disposable coveralls
(w/attached hood and foot cover) tyvek)
Goggles or safety glasses with side shields
Cap with brim, hard hat if working under people or wet materials
Non-skid shoe covers
Personal cleanup station
Two 16 oz. eye wash bottles
First aid kit (OSHA-compliant for four workers)
Fire extinguisher
Pump pressure sprayer
Case of bottled drinking water
Paper towels
Toilet paper
Emergency phone number sheet
Plastic totes, milk crates for contents, etc.
magic markers for sorting, moving boxes,
plastic bags for clothes.
 
Supplies
Heavy-duty trash bags for heavy material such as plaster
Two large heavy-duty garbage cans with casters
Roll of 10 ft. wide 6 mil poly
Staples for staple gun
Rolls of duct tape
Scrub brushes
4-inch-wide blade scrapers
Cardboard boxes to store cleaned objects
Packing tape and Magic markers
Mist bottles
Utility knife blades
Hundred watt light bulbs for reflector lamp
Box of disposable gloves
32 oz. mop heads
Non phosphate detergent (like Savogran® TSP)
(or) General cleaning detergent such as pine sol
Mildew-cide / anti- microbial EPA registered product like ShockWave, micro-ban or equivalent
If Professional Anti-microbial is not available, then use Household chlorine bleach (like Clorox® Regular-Bleach) ONLY IF YOU HAVE TO!!

Tools
Carpet cutter with extra blades
Front-end nipper (to pull nails)
Large crow bar
Long handled
Short flat-bar
Staple gun
Cat ’s paws nail puller
Mop squeeze bucket
3- 5 gal. buckets (one as a rinse bucket, two as
mixing buckets for cleaners)
2 – 2.5 gal. pump sprayers for cleaners
Mop handle for 32 oz. mop head
Broom and dust-pan
Bright flashlights and headlamps
Tool belt and tool belt tools including hammer,
measuring tape, scratch awl, Phillips and flathead
screw drivers, carpenter’s pencil, and utility
knife, etc.
Saw horses
Cross-cut hand saw
Brace and bits (where there is no electric)
Drywall saw
Moisture meter (like Delmhorst® J-LITE
Moisture Meter)
 
Equipment
Portable generator
20 ft. extension ladder
8 ft. A-frame ladder
4 and 6-foot A-Frame ladder
Window fan
Lock box
Shop vacuum with HEPA
Shovels and Hoes
Wheel barrow
Hand trucks
Dress Appropriately Before Entering
Before you enter a home that has been flooded, be sure to have the proper clothing, footwear, and safety items that may be needed.

1. Boots
   Wear waterproof rubber boots or waders with hard soles. If you're walking in muddy, water-coated floors and basements, there are likely sharp objects that you could step on.
2. A n/95 Micron Dust Mask
   Wear a mask over your mouth and nose to protect your lungs from pollutants and disease. A 95-micron mask filters out even the mold particles.
3. Gloves
   Wear gloves, preferably rubber gloves, to handle anything in flooded areas. Materials may be a health hazard due to sewage, chemicals, and oil in the water.
4. Hard Hats and Protective Clothing
   Loose and crumbling ceilings, falling debris, and trapped water are potential hazards to your head and body when entering a flooded home. By wearing water resistant clothing and a hard hat, you'll protect your vital parts from danger.
   

​Many people link poor indoor air quality to cigarette smoke, chemical pollutants, or the presence of mold or mildew. Although all of these airborne contaminants pose a serious threat to the overall quality of your home air, clutter can also negatively impact the quality of your indoor air.
How does clutter affect the quality of your home air?

1. A cluttered room provides more surface area where dust, pollen, and other pollutants can accumulate.

The correlation is simple; the more items that you have lying around your house, the more places allergens and pollutants build up. If you have piles of items in various rooms throughout your home, you are providing a place for airborne particles to land and accumulate. The clutter also provides areas where contaminants can settle and go unseen.
 

1. A cluttered space is harder to clean.

Envision an empty bedroom. Think of how easy it would be to clean the entire room. Now envision the very same room cluttered with lots of furniture, piles of books, piles of clothing, and various other types of clutter. How much longer is it going to take you to clean the room filled with clutter? A space that is filled with clutter is harder to clean and requires much more frequent and thorough cleaning.

1. A room with clutter has less air circulation.

Good air circulation is necessary for healthy air. Ideally, you want to let fresh air in your home as often as possible. You can also use your ventilation system and fans to circulate air throughout the inside of your home. Clutter build up in your home will reduce the flow of air and lessen the chemical clearing benefits of circulation
 
Bottom line: cut down the clutter. Make a habit of getting rid of junk mail, old clothing, broken holiday decorations, and all other clutter on a routine basis. Don’t let these items accumulate inside of your home. Take old electronics to be recycled. Donate wearable clothing, children’s toys, and useable household goods to charity. Take time, weekly, to clear out any clutter from your kitchen, family room, and bedrooms.
Even if you relegate your clutter to the garage and basement of your home, you are still allowing pollutants and allergens to accumulate. These contaminants can still make their way into your living spaces through your ventilation system and the airflow of your home. Clear the clutter and enjoy breathing healthier indoor air!
IF YOU NEED INDOOR AIR QUALITY TESTING OR SOLUTIONS. CALL
MOLD & Mildew Solutions -
205-252-9505   www.alabamamold.com

Mold Book!


After many months of work culminated in Lee Ramey’s new paperback book now on Amazon. The title is Mold (Does Not Have To Be) A Scary Subject.

Words from the author himself: “I thought there was a real need for a book like this”, says Lee, "So many of the books that I have read over the years was for professionals using much jargon, that didn’t mean much to the average person. Other books talked about how to fight insurance companies, or how to use herbs or other medical remedies to feel better. All these have a place, but I did not see a simple straightforward answer to the question, 
‘What happens now that I’ve found mold in my house?'"

“I tried to write it in such a way that you can enjoy it as a straight read through in a chronological order of most mold situations. But you can skip directly to a chapter that you have the most questions about if need be.”

“It is 66 Pages long with graphics and pictures, it is an easy read, and will take a little over an hour to read it through. If you follow all the endnotes and links in the back that support my thoughts, then you need to set aside a day or two. It is scientifically accurate, it was even technically reviewed by a retired research Scientist, Professor that specialized in the immunological aspects of the lungs.”

You can find it on Amazon.com by searching Mold book Ramey or here is the direct link: https://goo.gl/kuqdVL



Here’s a screenshot of what it looks like on my iPhone.

​

The Mildude
​

At Mold and Mildew Solutions LLC, we are often asked our professional opinion about a wide variety of issues about moisture and mold in the home. Here are some of the questions we get asked most often, along with our tested answers and guidance.

Particles 101: (Warning NERD ALERT!) A micron is a millionth of a meter. What does that mean? Particles on furniture and those in a shaft of light are approximately 50 microns or larger. Most harmful particles are 3 microns or fewer in size. Particles of 1 micron or less adhere to surfaces by molecular adhesion. (Translation: Small junk floating in the air are too small to see) Scrubbing is generally the only way to remove them. Larger particles tend to settle out of the atmosphere due to weight. Smaller, "respirable" particles remain virtually suspended in the air until breathed in. Approximately 98-99% of all particles by count are in the size range of 5 microns or less. These particles tend to remain in suspension or settle out so slowly that only quality electronic air cleaners and HEPA air cleaners are effective in removing these particles.

An average person breathes in about 16,000 quarts of air per day. Each quart contains some 70,000 visible and invisible particles. That's over a billion particles per day that our lungs must filter out! An average human red blood cell is approximately 5 microns in diameter. The average diameter of human hair is roughly 0.0035 inches in diameter, equivalent to 75 microns.

Is it possible to completely eliminate mold from the inside of a home or office building? The Mildude’s short answer to that question would be, NO. However, though, the answer depends upon what is meant by “completely eliminate mold.” To keep a building completely free of mold spores requires very efficient air filtration and is only accomplished in special situations like hospital operating rooms and manufacturing “clean rooms.” Remember, mold spores are in the outside air virtually all the time and some of them will get inside buildings.

However, it is possible to keep mold from growing inside a building. Moisture control is the key to controlling mold in interior spaces. Air filtration can contribute to lowering mold spores in the air but is secondary to moisture control.